Ryan's Journal

"My life amounts to no more than one drop in a limitless ocean. Yet what is any ocean, but a multitude of drops?" — David Mitchell

You have to dance in the Dance Area

Posted from Culver City, California at 7:30 pm, February 22nd, 2009

As an incentive for employees to work an unhealthy number of hours, 120 VC (the company through whom I contract with DIRECTV) offers a yearly trip to individuals who average at least 45 billable hours per week. Last year’s trip led Aaron and I to the Four Seasons in Santa Barbara, while this year’s offering took us to the Green Valley Ranch Resort in Las Vegas. For those unfamiliar with Vegas, the Strip is the center of all activity; Green Valley is not on the Strip. As a result, on Friday night Aaron and I hopped into a shuttle, arrived on the Strip, and spent the next several hours punishing our livers and increasing casino profit margins before hailing a cab to return to quieter settings. The next day we awoke with the typical day-after Vegas lurgy and after spending some time at the arcade headed off to the hotel spa for detoxification, all the while vowing that Saturday night would be more laid back; this vow was one that would be broken.

The company had provided me with a bit of spending money for the weekend, so we decided to break convention and see a show. Since Cirque du Soleil has about 300 shows currently in Vegas we figured that was a good option, and randomly picked Zumanity, not realizing that it was Cirque du Soleil’s freaky sex-themed show. While I was fully in favor of the myriad of boobs and acrobatics, the six foot six dominatrix host(ess) and gay gladiators were less of a draw for me. Aaron summed it up well: “That was crazy. I liked it. I’m glad we went. But I’d probably never go again.”

With the show ending around 9:00, the evening took a new direction. Hanging out in the bar at New York, New York casino we were watching highlights on Sportscenter, talking to random people, and occasionally stepping away to lose a few dollars in the slot machines when the magic of Vegas intervened. While we were downing Coronas an obviously drunk pair of brothers from the actual state of New York came dancing by, and Aaron made the comment that “you guys are just sort of making your own little dance area, huh?” “Dance area” is Vegas code for mayhem, and thus was born the New York, New York dance floor. In the midst of a busy casino walkway next to the bar Aaron and his new friends started levying a dance tax on all who passed through – “This is the dance area, you have to dance in the dance area!” While this would have been beyond obnoxious anywhere else, in Vegas these moments are the stuff of legend, and girls, guys, waitresses, security guards, young people, old people, and everyone in between spent a bit of time dancing through the next four hours. One old Asian lady who clearly spoke no English looked panic-stricken when Aaron danced up to her, partially blocking her way, but after two seconds a smile broke across her face, she high-fived, and shimmied her way along. There were moves made that caused women to swoon and would have caused Fred Astaire to cringe, people who returned hour after hour to see what was going on, many drinks consumed, and more laughter than on almost any Vegas trip I’ve ever had the pleasure of partaking in.

The dance-a-thon ended around 2:00 AM, and by 3:30 I returned to the Green Valley. Aaron made it back around 6:00 AM, and the very overpriced room service was a blessing when we finally awoke the next day. I had planned on setting off back to LA around 4:00, but after a streak of bad luck the gods of Vegas decided to keep me around a bit longer by giving me two of the three highest “Hot Hot” jackpots during a two hour stretch (“highest” is relative on these slots – I won a grand total of $50), and when finally I rolled back into Culver City around midnight it was a tired but happy man that curled up into bed.

We are Witnesses

Posted from 25,000 feet above Monterey, California at 4:10 pm, January 25th, 2009

Aaron’s Christmas present this year was two tickets to the Cavs vs. Warriors game in Oakland. Result: awesome. Lebron James proved strong enough to break the decades-long Holliday brother jinx on all Cleveland sports teams by hitting the game winning shot as time expired. Aaron and I were present eleven rows behind the Cavs bench wearing huge, curly brown Anderson Varejao wigs, and even the Warriors fans sitting around us seem stoked to have us there. In addition to some awesome basketball the night’s highlights included the courtside arrival of George Lucas (kid behind us: “Dad, who works for him?”, father: “Everyone.”) and some unbelievable intermission entertainment. The halftime entertainment saw the world’s most flexible man, who showed up in a tiny box and then fit his body through a tennis racket and a toilet seat. A timeout brought four short guys and a trampoline, leading to some of the most impressive dunks (think double back flips) that I’ve ever seen. There were cheerleaders (Cheerleaders are pretty…), drummers, t-shirt launches, pizza giveaways, and all manner of craziness.

The weekend’s other highlight was Aaron’s new best friend, Hanford. The puppy arrived on Wednesday and has since taken over Aaron’s life, getting him up through the night, finding all manners of rocks to eat, and generally behaving as you would expect a puppy to behave. The little guy is a bull mastiff, which apparently means that “little guy” will only apply for about a month, and also means that his back hips work on some sort of a pivot, giving him a distinctly tank-like walk. There was much bouncing, biting, chewing, and general mayhem throughout the three days that Hanford made my acquaintance.

Aaron & Hanford

Aaron & Hanford.

Me & Aaron

Me & Aaron, lookin’ pimp with some delicious chicken tacos.

Lebron James

Lebron, tossin’ some chalk.

Flyin’

Posted from 32,000 feet above San Luis Obispo, California at 9:30 pm, January 22nd, 2009

Soley because they might be fun to read in a year, here are some predictions for 2009:

  • The stock market will be close to 10,000 at the end of the year. I’m probably jinxing it by writing that, and instead it will be closer to 6,000, but this point in history seems a lot like the mid-to-late 1990s when there were tons of promising technologies on the verge of becoming useful and creating work.
  • On that note, by the end of 2009 everyone will know what the smart grid is. With Obama focusing so heavily on energy it seems inevitable that there will be a push to upgrade the electrical grid, electrical companies will be looking for ways to save money through efficiency, and homeowners will want to save money by using smart meters to gauge when electricity is cheapest.
  • There will be at least two new national parks or monuments created. This prediction is based on nothing other than the fact that it’s been a long time so there must be something in the pipeline.
  • I will schedule another big expedition-style trip. Due to changing IAATO regulations the Cheesemans Antarctica trip in 2010-11 will be their last, although I suspect that instead of returning to Antarctica some other opportunity may arise.
  • Chrysler is going to go out of business or be purchased; GM and Ford will keep chugging along. Another major bank will fail or be purchased.
  • Obama’s approval rating will drop from its current 80% levels but still remain over 60%.
  • I will run a marathon or some similar endurance race; this one is probably wishful thinking but I am definitely getting tired of being out of shape, so who knows…
  • The “buzz” in energy will be all about bio fuels and concentrated solar. Wind and corn-ethanol will still be the most heavily used alternative energies, but concentrated solar will be seen as the most economical and reliable while fuels made using algaes and other biological sources will be seen as the future replacements for petroleum.
  • The Beatles and Garth Brooks will finally get released on iTunes. Kid Rock will not.
  • The Boeing 787 will not face any further delays – two years is late enough. The 747-8 will move into production on schedule.
  • The Indians will not make the World Series. The Browns will not make the Super Bowl but will win at least seven games. The Cavs… will not be jinxed by me.
  • Tesla Motors will still be in business, although the Model S will be delayed until the end of 2011.
  • I will still be working at DIRECTV. As much as I want to move back to the Bay Area there are a huge number of good things about my current job, and they’re being even more flexible now about letting me work remotely on occasion, making it easier to come home for three day weekends.
  • Yahoo will be purchased or merge with someone like AOL.
  • Lance Armstrong will finish in the top ten in the Tour de France but won’t be on the podium. I like the guy, but three years away from cycling is just too tough to come back from.
  • I will manage to make at least two journal entries a month, doubling my pitiful performance of 2008.

That’s what I’ve got. The comments link is there for anyone who wants to add their own or mock me for making such geeky predictions (“bio fuels?”).

Dropping a Ball

Posted from Culver City, California at 8:20 pm, December 31st, 2008

Day three of the post-Christmas adventure started with a hike up to the Mount Whitney trailhead through snow, ice, and some impressive scenery. After spending four hours adding to yesterday’s blister count I returned to the Suby and took off south with no real destination in mind. California is one of those unique places where a random highway can lead to truly bizarre sights, and while today’s find can’t compare to the weirdness that is the Salton Sea, finding myself on a road between a Naval Weapons station and a massive RV/ATV gathering in the middle of the desert was unusual enough to make the day a success.

Smiling’s My Favorite

Posted from Near Big Pine, Eastern Sierra, California at 5:30 pm, December 30th, 2008

Christmas this year was again spent at Ma & Pa’s house in the Bay Area. Aaron was given the gift of Cavs tickets and an Anderson Varejao wig, the Skipper got a cookbook for curry (he cooks now), and Ma got enough pedicure gift certificates to keep her toes pretty for months. In a surprise move, rather than the usual gifts of sweaters and bizarre neck massagers mom also put together a really awesome album with copies of the family Christmas cards and letters going back about twenty years; Aaron and I were expecting the worst when she told us to “close our eyes”, so this gift was a pleasant surprise.

This year’s holiday miracle came in the form of a visit from Roto-Rooter after Mr. Hanky the Christmas Poo took up residence in the downstairs bathrooms. Combining blocked toilets with the holidays brings out the best in everyone, and despite Sally’s initial dismay and Aaron’s dry-heaving it ended up being a fairly amusing (if expensive) event.

Tonight I’m camped out in a closed forest service campground in the Eastern Sierra near the base of Mount Whitney. After driving through gold country and up to Tahoe yesterday I spent the night in Carson City before heading south today. Hiking and photography at Mono Lake went well, although the silver dollar-sized blisters on my insteps indicate that the afternoon’s attempt at cross-country skiing was less successful. The interesting fact of the day comes from Mono Lake, which apparently lost forty feet in depth (and a signficant amount of surface area) due to diversion of streams by the city of Los Angeles starting in 1941. As of 1994 a lawsuit requires LA to restore twenty of the lost forty feet to the lake level to provide improved habitat for the two million birds that visit the lake each year, although at present the lake has risen only about eleven feet from its low point. Along with the restoration of the Lower Owens River, returning Mono Lake to a healthier state could have a huge impact on the wildlife that migrates through the Eastern Sierra each year, thus making me the slightest bit more optimistic that people may actually make the world a bit better during the remaining decades of my lifetime.

Sierra Nevada Winter Landscape

Sierra Nevada Winter Landscape.

In Brief

Posted from Culver City, California at 10:00 pm, December 1st, 2008

A lot has happened this month:

  • Obama was elected President; I’m excited and optimistic.
  • The stock market and economy have continued to crash – the DOW is off almost 50% from its high point, and my savings are in a similar predicament.
  • Ted called, and it looks like I may be taking a trip to swim with whales in March. I’m ready.
  • The annual Holliday Thanksgiving extravaganza took place over the weekend, and Sally once again produced a ridiculously great meal. Much food was eaten, and much fun was had.
  • Following Thanksgiving the family headed off to the horse races; betting on horses based on odds and jockey records was a losing strategy for me; betting based on which horse had the best name was much more successful.
  • Aaron and I embarked on our usual shenanigans, including a quest for expired food items that led to some gagging as we disposed of a 25 year old bottle of lime juice.

King Penguin Detail

Random pretty picture – detail of a King penguin’s neck feathers.

History

Posted from Culver City, California at 11:00 pm, October 11th, 2008

On average, about once a year I’ve used this journal as a way to record my thoughts and not just my experiences. Those posts are probably the most boring to read, but I like having an occasional snapshot to look back on and remember how things felt at any given moment in time. This post is another in that series, so feel free to ignore and watch the Mr. T video in the previous post if this sort of rambling isn’t your thing…

So the economy is a mess, an election is 24 days away that looks like it will massively change the make-up of government, and with so much happening it’s easy to overlook that this moment seems to be one of those pivotal times that will be recorded in history books for years to come. There haven’t been a lot of major events that I’ve lived through in my 33 years – the ones that come immediately to mind are:

  • September 11. Probably the event of the greatest historical importance over the past 30 years.
  • The 2000 election. At the time it seemed like a big deal, but the fact that history would have been vastly different had 300 votes gone another way in Florida makes this a much more significant event in retrospect.
  • The Asian tsunami. This didn’t affect me personally, but I still remember seeing the headline on CNN the night of the earthquake (during which time they reported a couple of thousand deaths) and thinking “this will be very, very bad”.
  • The end of the Cold War. After years of nuclear missle summits and scary videos of Soviet military parades, I seem to recall that this one sort of came in stages. The fall of the Berlin Wall was obviously a big deal, but it seemed like over a period of years there was another country that changed leadership every month, and then suddenly one day everyone realized that the USSR no longer existed.
  • Challenger. Everyone remembers where they were when the shuttle exploded. Strangely the loss of Columbia seems to have had a much less significant impact – I guess Challenger was the accident that led people to realize that we didn’t have as much control as we thought we did, and has since made the US very risk-averse.
  • Tiananmen Square. While at the time this event seemed important, today the bigger story seems to be the rise of China. In retrospect, Tiananmen Square was significant for the fact that it showed that China would do things its own way and that it had become a large enough power that the rest of the world would be unable to assert any influence.
  • The First Persian Gulf War. I was in high school at the time, and no one knew how to feel about such a big conflict. Vietnam was the only relevant event most people knew of, and the protests and discussion seemed to assume the two would be the same; afterwards, with CNN showing live coverage and the Iraqi army being defeated so easily, people seemed to forget Vietnam and assume that the US military was invincible, leading to overconfidence in the current Persian Gulf conflict.

There are other stories, but I’ve either forgotten them, they seem less impactful, or strike me as being related to the stories above – Hurricane Katrina or the Iraq War are clear examples; in my mind, those stories started with the 2000 election, in which the US electorate signalled that it was more important to have a President who seemed likeable and shared religious values rather than someone who was more intellectually qualified such as McCain (the 2000 version) or Gore. I’m sure Bush is a nice guy, but just as you wouldn’t hire a CEO who didn’t have expertise, leadership ability and a sharp mind, the President should likewise be elected based on those qualities and not on his likeability or success in demonizing the competition.

In any case, what prompted this posting is a feeling that the current time is another big moment in history, and I want to remember it. With banks failing, stocks down 40%, the government pumping $700 billion into markets in addition to countless loan guarantees and bailouts, this moment will be a pivotal one. In general people don’t like big changes, but with current conditions people are willing to try just about anything, meaning the next year could see more major policy changes than in the past thirty. Obama has campaigned on the premise that the dominant economic policy of “trickle down” is a failure, and is instead trying to implement his own “bottom up” strategy in which it will be the strength of the middle-class, rather than the strength of markets, by which the economy is measured. I expect higher taxes on the rich, massive government investments in infrastructure to create jobs, and at least in the short-term some large and scary deficits that will, for the first time since World War II, mean that America is no longer the clear economic leader in the world. While I think that after the past eight years America would have lost its economic dominance no matter what happened, the transition due to Obama’s proposals will (I think) make it happen sooner, although I believe that the investments he proposes will cause the downturn to be much shorter than it would have otherwise been.

In any case, it will be interesting to see the outcome of this change – $15 billion a year for energy research, if enacted, will go a long way towards creating new industries, and if done right could completely re-make how the world produces and uses energy. Higher taxes on the rich may reduce some investing, but at the same time a stronger middle class will (in my opinion) have a stimulus effect that will more than overcome any investment losses and fundamentally shift people’s view of what a “strong economy” means. The elephant in the room is the deficit – unless that comes under control inflation will rise and nations will be less willing to loan America money. For a country that relies on the ability to have large budget deficits a lack of credit could result in very traumatic cuts to defense, entitlements, and other government spending. As an Obama supporter I trust in his vision and like where it could lead, but at the same time see this moment in history as a very pivotal one that will be interesting to look back on twenty years from now.

Rocket Man

Posted from Culver City, California at 9:05 pm, September 30th, 2008

It went mostly unnoticed by the news, but SpaceX just became the first private company to put a rocket into orbit. Their costs are significantly lower than other launch offerings, meaning that we could (finally!) be on the verge of seeing space open up to the extent that so many were predicting it would back in the ’60’s.

Eddie Murphy gave me the SARS

Posted from Culver City, California at 9:45 pm, August 31st, 2008

Between work, JAMWiki development, Iceland photos, the Skipper’s retirement, and various other odds and ends I’ve done a craptastical job of updating the journal – my apologies. Here’s a breakdown of the major events of the past six weeks:

  • The Skipper retired after 814 years in the ministry, and went out by having a bunch of his Native American friends play the drum and sing some songs during his final sermon. What he does next is anyone’s guess.
  • Eddie Murphy was filming his next flick here a few weeks ago and managed to completely shut down downtown Culver City for three days. Not only was it more difficult to get to Starbucks, but I got a cold for a week after seeing him. Coincidence? Probably.
  • Aaron is living in the Bay Area again. He sells houses and stuff and lives with Charlie Chi. They see deer outside.
  • DirecTV decided to reward folks for a good quarter by having a city-wide scavenger hunt. The idea sounded good – limos, drive around looking for stuff… the execution, while fun, involved a camera and tasks including such gems as “take a picture with a lifeguard”, “do yoga in front of Yogaworks” and “take a picture of your (predominantly male) team piled on a store’s floor”. There are now significantly more skeletons in the closet should I ever run for public office.
  • A friend at work got married last week, and I was lucky enough to be a guest at an Afghan wedding. The dancing, singing, tublas, food, and all was a real trip – at one point I remarked that it was a made-for-the-movies scene straight out of My Big Fat Afghan Wedding, and those at the table all agreed.
  • And good news about someone other than me: JB was named MIT’s 2008 Young Innovator. He rules.

Pictures from Iceland are only about halfway done, so it will be a while yet before they’re online. In the mean time, here are a few of the ones that turned out reasonably well:

Razorbills at Latrabjarg

Razorbills at Latrabjarg.

Landmannalauger Landcape

Landmannalauger landscape.

Haukur Snorrason

Hawk, elevated. In the foreground you can see the Barbie fun stool.

Pillowy Softness

Posted from Keflavic, Iceland at 10:45 am, July 11th, 2008

Beds are soft and warm and comfortable and awesome.

The cliffs of Arnarstapi were roamed all night under the midnight sun. Seabird colonies are generally noisy, chaotic places, so it was almost otherworldly to see all of the birds quiet and either resting or calmly staring back at me. The Arctic fox made a brief (although un-photographable) reappearance, and the twilight painted magic through the evening.

I set off towards Reykjavik at 4:30 a bit sleepy but more peaceful than anything else. A day earlier I had been thinking that the one photograph I most wished I had gotten was a good shot of the whooper swans, who in general have been so wary that they swim away at the first glimpse of a person; it seems I did something right in a past life, because at 5:30 a family of swans was sitting in a pond next to the road, posing for pictures. Shortly thereafter the little guys in the brain signalled that if there wasn’t at least a couple of hours of sleep that they would go on strike, and since that’s generally a bad thing while driving I pulled over and let the neurons rest.

Once back in Reykjavik I roamed all over looking for the delicious cafe that the Skipper and I ate at two weeks ago, and of course finally found it a block away from my parking spot. After lunch I returned to the cathedral for another obligatory photo of the Leifur Eriksson statue, and finally came back to find a parking ticket on the Wondermobile – apparently being able to read the small print (in Icelandic) under the giant “P” sign would have been helpful. After returning the Wondermobile and catching the bus to Keflavik there was much sleeping, showering, and trimming of hair and beard. Today it’s off to the airport and a flight to Boston, and after that the great Iceland Adventure of 2008 comes to its end.

Whooper Swans

In a past life I did good things, and so in this life I get to photograph swans. Assuming karma is real, in my next life I suspect that I may have to endure daily beatings.

Ending at the Beginning

Posted from Arnarstapi, Iceland at 12:45 am, July 10th, 2008

The trip is coming to a close in a pretty cool way – it’s nearly one in the morning and the skies are totally clear, allowing the twilight to cover the land. For about two hours the sun has been hovering around the horizon and the world has turned purple – if sleepiness doesn’t get too extreme I’d like to stay up all night to fully savor this midnight sun experience.

Here’s the day’s summary: I unintentionally slept late again, waking up at 9:30 under clear skies. It took about four hours of steady driving to reach the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, and after a traditional Icelandic hot dog lunch the Wondermobile started the journey around the western edge of the peninsula. Given the clear weather the landscape was fully visible and it’s a beautiful place, with the Snaefellsjokull icecap (gateway to Jules Verne’s center of the earth) dominating the scenery. I made a stop at a bird cliff set amidst old lava flows at the peninsula’s western end, then headed up a four-wheel-drive-only track towards the icecap. From the high vantage point I got to watch the fog enveloping the peninsula’s end before I headed southeast towards Hellnar and Arnarstapi, site of the trip’s beginning.

I arrived in Hellnar at 10:00 PM, which in recent days has been when the light disappeared, and set off hiking without the camera. Of course on this night the world turned purple, kittwakes were feeding their fluffy white chicks, and the trip’s second Arctic fox showed up. It was tough to be upset over the lack of photos, however, especially since the odds are that I would have botched the pictures and it was nice to utterly relax amidst the scenery. Additionally, the symmetry of ending where things began is nice as it gives some insight on what effect the trip has had – for example, I’m noticing small details that I would have missed four weeks ago, and feel more willing to slow down and let the world unfold around me. Modern life makes both of those experiences difficult to accommodate, and as much as having a bed and a shower sounds nice it will be a shame to revert back to old ways.

Northern Fulmar

Northern fulmar. Flying.

Topless Mountaineering

Posted from Siglufjordur, Iceland at 8:55 pm, July 8th, 2008

An unexpectedly great day. The past few days have apparently been more exhausting than I realized, and after a long ten hours of sleep I was awoken by an arriving tour bus at 9:30. The fog was still heavy, so the Wondermobile was guided to Akureyri, Iceland’s second largest city with a population of over 16,000. The library there offers free internet access, and more importantly has a cafe with really good coffee, so I took a couple of hours to catch up with the news and get my caffeine on.

Since there wasn’t a real plan for the day, and since there was a paved road heading around the coast, I detoured off of the ring route and took in the countryside. Eventually the road turned inland, and as the mountains rose and a fjord disappeared behind me the Little Voice in my head started talking. The conversation went something like this:

“Stop and climb a mountain.” said the Little Voice. “Please? Why wouldn’t you stop. It’s perfect weather and this scenery is about as good as it gets.”

“Little Voice,” I replied, “my legs are very tired from all of the recent hiking, and I want to get to the west fjords to photograph birds. There’s no time to climb mountains.”

“But there are no trails and no other people around, so you’ll have the mountain all to yourself.” persisted the Little Voice. “And besides, why did you come to Iceland if not to climb remote mountains that overlook fjords?”

Duly chastised by my inner monologue, who made an excellent argument, I pulled the Wondermobile off of the road and set off up a massive and scenic peak. Following a zig-zag path through boggy fields, up snowy slopes, and over loose rock it took a couple of hours and a few buckets of sweat to reach the summit, but the experience was awe-inspiring. While at the top I took a handful of photos, including several of fog rolling in from the fjords; it was only after about ten minutes that the realization dawned that heavy fog would make it extraordinarily difficult to navigate back to the car, so a hurried descent was made, all the while making note of every landmark I could find to use as guides back to the Wondermobile. Luckily whatever was rolling in wasn’t terribly thick, and the long trip back to the car ended up being surprisingly straightforward.

After the mountain climb the next stop was a short detour along high cliffs to Siglufjordur, Iceland’s northernmost town. The place once had a population of over 10,000 but the herring fishery collapsed in the sixties, and now it’s a sleepy and very beautiful little outpost along a fjord. Most important about this town, however, is that by the harbor is a municipal campground with hot showers. As grungy backpacker Ryan stepped into the shower and turned on the water a chorus of angels sang out and light shone down from the heavens as the liquid cleanliness flowed forth. I really liked this town when I arrived, but after that other-worldly bit of refreshment I found myself briefly considering forgoing a return visit to the bird cliffs of western Iceland in order to stay here for another day.

Self-Portrait

Listen to your inner voice, unless it is psychotic. Non-psychotic inner voices make you do things like climb mountains even when you’re tired, and that’s all good. And apologies for posting my ugly mug on two straight days, but this is (unfortunately) the best picture I have from the mountain top.

The Fog

Posted from Godafoss, Iceland at 9:25 pm, July 7th, 2008

I finally found a spot to sleep and headed to bed at 2:30 last night, then got up at 8:30 to revisit the waterfalls. Two days ago I was debating skipping Dettifoss altogether, and instead ended up visiting it three times – go figure. It’s a pretty awesome waterfall (“awesome” as in it shakes the ground), and after the fog lifted and visibility increased to more than two feet I found a placard that clarified the “largest waterfall” confusion from yesterday – the placard states that it is the most powerful waterfall in Europe. p = mv and all that, apparently.

There was a bunch of hiking today in Jokulsargljufur National Park, although I’m old and sore so not as much distance was covered as yesterday. The trails led to some odd lava formations, through the river gorge, and past several waterfalls. I took a look at Dettifoss from both the east and west side of the river – distance across the river canyon: probably two hundred yards, driving time: about two hours. Unlike the United States they aren’t concerned with saving people from their own stupidity here, so there are no railings or safety warnings around the waterfalls, which provides some amazing opportunities – I was able to sit on a sheer cliff with the waterfall roaring next to me for a good hour this afternoon, alone to think and enjoy the scene.

After leaving the eastern side of Dettifoss the journey continued on its loop back to Myvatn and onwards towards the west coast. While driving through Myvatn a bank of fog came in from the fjords that literally looked like something out of a Stephen King novel, and it went from blue skies and sunny to druid-like in about two seconds. The parking spot (for now) is by a waterfall further inland, and barring someone kicking me out the plan is to hide in the fog here tonight and then head on to the western fjords tomorrow. Sadly there are only two full days remaining in the trip before I have to head back to Reykjavik to return the Wondermobile on the tenth, with the return flight scheduled to depart on the afternoon of the eleventh; with luck the weather will stay good and the adventures will continue until then.