Ryan's Journal

"My life amounts to no more than one drop in a limitless ocean. Yet what is any ocean, but a multitude of drops?" — David Mitchell

The Girls are Pretty

Posted from Keflavik, Iceland at 11:00 pm, June 13th, 2008

I started my trip to Iceland by walking into a bank, asking to exchange money, and being politely told that I was in an insurance office; Ryan Holliday aka “travel master” is back in action. Keflavik as a town doesn’t have a lot to offer, although there are some nice walks outside of town along the ocean, but it was good to take a nap after being up all night and to see Rod and Marlene again – not unexpectedly, Rod’s first words were “Holy cow, I come all the way to Iceland, and you’re here, too?” Some things don’t change. The last remaining member of the photo tour arrives tomorrow morning, and then we’re off to the wilds for a two week adventure.

Send me on my Way

Posted from Boston Logan Airport, Massachusetts at 5:30 pm, June 12th, 2008

The meat of the trip starts now as the Skipper and I are getting ready to board the plane to Reykjavik. Prior to getting to the airport today’s excitement started with a trip back up to the Kittery Trading Post. That was followed by hiking and bird-watching at Parker River National Wildlife Refuge on Plum Island featuring some confusion while hiking the Marsh trail and accidentally using the Dunes trail guide – “you are now standing in front of a forty foot dune that took years to form” makes no sense in a swamp. The evening concluded with a massive lobster dinner at the Gloucester House followed by a dash to the airport and some cursing over Boston’s schizophrenic street layout and lack of route markers. Now we’re sitting in Logan waiting for the call to board the plane. I haven’t taken any photos worth posting yet, but hopefully Iceland will cooperate and something other than my boring ramblings will liven the journal up soon.

From the Skipper: “Say the food was good. Say the food was great.” The Skipper likes eating.

Itchy & Scratchy

Posted from New London, New Hampshire at 1:40 pm, June 11th, 2008

After an insane series of thunderstorms last night that rocked the car and literally provided so much lightning that I could have read a book using the light of the flashes, I woke up this morning at 5:00 AM and headed back out on the road. Among several stops was the Quincy Bog, which I learned was actually a fen. “Fen” is apparently a British word meaning “ten billion blood-thirsty mosquitos”, and it wasn’t long before I was chased away. After a few more stops the Ryan Holliday Childhood Memories Tour 2008 resumed with a trip to New London, site of my parent’s cabin during our New Hampshire days. The cabin seems to be gone – it looks like a different cabin was built in its place – but Peter Christian’s Tavern is still here, as is the Philbrick-Cricenti Bog. This bog is a true bog instead of a fen-in-disguise, and it features the following helpful safety advice at marker twenty:

STAY ON THE WALK! Those light green patches are only thin skims of moss and sedge. Below them are remains of cows, deer, and at least one horse.”

At least one horse? I had the best places to play as a kid.

Thunder is loud and flashy and wet

Posted from White Mountains National Forest, New Hampshire at 8:00 pm, June 10th, 2008

After a brief excursion further up the coast the journey turned inland today, passing through increasingly smaller towns in Maine, and eventually leading up into the White Mountains. In the midst of this trip God sent a thunderstorm with torrential rain and insane winds to make sure I was awake – trees were literally falling down alongside the road, and a bolt of lightning hit about a hundred feet away at one point. Having the air turn a blinding red followed by an ear-shattering “BOOM” didn’t scare me or anything. Nope. Not at all.

I made a few short hikes in order to provide the millions of little bugs that are flying around with something to focus their attention on (it’s boring being a bug) and then spent an insanely long time trying to find a random road along which to park for the night. It took a while to find something suitable, and hopefully whatever rangers patrol this park won’t bother me while I’m sleeping. Tomorrow should be a good opportunity to hang out a bit more with the bugs before heading back to Boston to meet my dad. We then get a day in Boston before catching the red-eye to Reykjavik (side note: “Red-eye to Reykjavik” would be a great movie title).

Jungle Fever

Posted from Ogunquit, Maine at 10:40 pm, June 9th, 2008

The East Coast is currently experiencing a heat wave – it’s hot, and not just “wow, it’s warm out” hot, but starving-cows-and-tsetse-flies-in-Africa hot; being outside is not a particularly pleasant experience. As a result I didn’t make it very far today, and sought out air-conditioning for the evening rather than the planned bear encounters. I rambled up the coast a bit, picking up some stuff at my dad’s favorite outdoor store in Kittery, and after asking about a good seafood place was told by a particularly crusty old fellow “well, that would be Bob’s”. It’s an established fact that when a crusty old fellow gives you advice in New England you take it, so I headed over to Bob’s Clam Hut and got a massive plate of clams, haddock, shrimp, and lobster stew. Tastiness factor: 8.5.

One thing I’m suprisingly liking about being back here is the range of ages – in California, young people are disproportionately represented, while in New England there seems to be a more uniform range of ages. One extreme example: at Bob’s the lady taking orders was perched on a stool but still barely visible over the counter. I’d guess she was in her eighties, and I would have loved to see someone complain since she gave off a grandmotherly “I’ve been on this earth too long to have to deal with your crap” sort of vibe. There’s a sense here that people have been doing what they’re doing for a while, which gives this feeling that while people may not have the breadth of experience that the mobile masses on the West Coast do, everyone here has a depth of experience that would put most Californians to shame. It’s a bit odd to discover that I miss having old folks around, but traveling has a way of making a person aware of weird and embarrassing personality quirks like that one.

How do you like dem apples?

Posted from Manchester, New Hampshire at 9:05 am, June 9th, 2008

The Iceland adventure began in Boston. More specifically, it began with a trip to Cambridge, home to Harvard University, a place I’d never visited before. The campus reeks of smart (“smaht” as the locals say), and you can’t help but feel like the folks there all spend their hours speaking in Latin about the minutae of monetary policy in the mid-fourteenth century Incan Empire. The campus is also notable for some awesome buildings, a lot of open space, several old churches, and tons of jogging girls, all of which I greatly approved of.

My efforts to leave Cambridge were twice thwarted by some weird scientific singularity that makes Cambridge the center of the universe unless you leave along a specific bearing, but after two hours I finally found a road that didn’t eventually lead back to Harvard Square. The next stop was Gloucester, and if my ten years growing up in New England might have once qualified me as a local, the fact that I now call the town “Gl-ow-ster” instead of “Gl-ah-ster” puts me squarely in the tourist camp. Delicious seafood was eaten for a late lunch, and then a roundabout path was taken to my hometown of Nashua, New Hampshire. This was one of only a handful of trips I’ve taken back since moving away in 1984, and things continue to get smaller. At age nine my world consisted of approximately the three block radius that I was allowed to play in, but that once-massive landscape now seems pretty tiny. It’s worth noting, however, that nine-year-old Ryan knew every tree, stone, plant, and shortcut in that world, while thirty-two year old Ryan is considerably less familiar with the world that he lives in.

I’m not sure what today’s plans are – after not sleeping on the red-eye to Boston I crashed for eleven hours last night, and will enjoy having a bed and shower until the noon checkout before heading off to somewhere with considerably fewer amenities, and probably many more bears, for the next two days.

Lost

Posted from Culver City, California at 9:35 pm, May 31st, 2008

This journal entry is actually being written on June 1, but I didn’t want to leave May empty.

The great Iceland adventure, and my first big vacation in two years, starts in a week. The schedule looks like the following:

  • Five days in Boston. Lobster will be eaten.
  • Slightly more than two weeks in Iceland with Rod, Marlene and the Skipper.
  • Slightly less than two weeks in Iceland on my own. This is the part of the trip where it’s most likely I’ll do something stupid.
  • One-night stopover in Boston. After four weeks of eating pickled herring there will almost certainly be lobster on the menu.
  • Back to LA.

For those wondering “Why Iceland?”, here’s a pretty picture. It’s not of Iceland, so it doesn’t really answer the question, but it’s pretty:

Denali from Reflection Pond

This is pretty. It’s Denali (Mt. McKinley) reflected from the creatively-named Reflection Pond.

The Story

Posted from Culver City, California at 9:15 pm, April 29th, 2008

This month’s big event was a fishing trip in Santa Barbara with Aaron’s (potential) Fall MBA class. We got a hotel room the night before, and after a crazy day of work I arrived late and exhaused to an empty room. Aaron and one of his co-workers showed up shortly thereafter, suffering the effects of a night on the town. The wisdom of going big the night before heading out on the water revealed itself the following morning – after an hour of exhaltation on the water, Aaron heaved over the side and spent the rest of the trip shivering in the fetal position when he wasn’t tossing cookies in the head.

For my part I decided not to fish – I’d never been ocean fishing before and was a bit disillusioned with the process. The captain would steer the boat over a rock, check his fishfinder, announce about how many fish were on the bottom, and then everyone would drop a line and wait about a minute for a bite. If nothing bit in that time they moved on. Making matters worse, the rock fish we were fishing for apparently didn’t handle changes in depth very well, and as they were pulled up the decompression caused their brains to explode and their eyes to bug out of their heads – it was a bunch of catatonic, bug-eyed snapper that came on deck.

Despite the puke and the fish massacre, the trip was a lot of fun. Two gray whales met us on the way out to sea, several sea lions made appearance, and there were tons of birds around the Channel Islands. The weather was sunny, and while cold it was awesome being out in the wind on the water. After getting back to land we ran passed a mouse that was standing on a cat that was in turn standing on a dog in downtown Santa Barbara, ate a delicious meal at Chipotle, and then caught a showing of the heartwarming and very funny (yet overly weiner-revealing) flick Forgetting Sarah Marshall.

Time

Posted from Culver City, California at 8:45 pm, April 29th, 2008

Andrew Sullivan posted an excerpt from this article, which tries to put into perspective how much time people really have available:

“…if you take Wikipedia as a kind of unit, all of Wikipedia, the whole project–every page, every edit, every talk page, every line of code, in every language that Wikipedia exists in–that represents something like the cumulation of 100 million hours of human thought. I worked this out with Martin Wattenberg at IBM; it’s a back-of-the-envelope calculation, but it’s the right order of magnitude, about 100 million hours of thought.

And television watching? Two hundred billion hours, in the U.S. alone, every year. Put another way, now that we have a unit, that’s 2,000 Wikipedia projects a year spent watching television. Or put still another way, in the U.S., we spend 100 million hours every weekend, just watching the ads. This is a pretty big surplus. People asking, “Where do they find the time?” when they’re looking at things like Wikipedia don’t understand how tiny that entire project is, as a carve-out of this asset that’s finally being dragged into what Tim calls an architecture of participation.”

I’m of course typing this while watching Deadliest Catch (which rules), and would be useless without an hour or two of downtime every night, but the analysis above puts the phrase “if only there was more time available” into perspective.

Famousness

Posted from Culver City, California at 8:15 pm, March 31st, 2008

I started trying to figure out how many people I knew who were at least mentioned in Wikipedia about two weeks ago, and have sadly discovered that I don’t know a lot of famous people. My criteria was that I had to know the person well, so even though I went to high school with Scott Savol of American Idol fame, and have joined Audrey and her friend Brian Kehew for drinks on several occasions, neither made the cut. As it stands now, I’ve found only two people that I know that have their very own articles:

  • JB – The super-cool electric-Porsche-driving former roommate who is now the successful CTO of Tesla Motors. The article correctly notes JB’s penchant for eating cereal, but fails to mention that he is a twotime veteran of the “Active Galapagos” trips.
  • Carter Bays – Of Shaker Heights and Plymouth Church fame, Carter has since been nominated for an Emmy for writing on Letterman is is a producer/writer of several television shows. He is best known, of course, for his harmonica work back in the days at Camp Fitch.

And there are only four folks I know with mentions in Wikipedia articles, and that’s only if you include a questionable mention for the author of JAMWiki:

  • Audrey – My current roommate fails to get a mention for her Scare the Children work, but is mentioned for singing backup on a couple of Rob Zombie albums.
  • Yours Truly – Who snuck in via work on JAMWiki thanks to Wikipedia editor “Khartlage” a couple of months ago.
  • Felicia – A multiple national-champion fencer and two-time Olympian who shockingly doesn’t have her own Wikipedia article yet. Felicia and JB had the misfortune of having to deal with living under the same roof as me for several months back in 2003. For the record, Felicia is wicked awesome.
  • Jerome Poncet – The memorable French captain who led the trip to South Georgia Island in 2004.

It’s been a rather fun time wasting exercise to see who shows up and who doesn’t – I was surprised that Rod wasn’t listed, and shocked that Felicia doesn’t have an article of her own. I’m sure I’ve probably missed a bunch, but since a bunch of friends read this journal hopefully the list can be expanded via the comments link. Extra points to anyone who knows more than five people with their own articles.

Magic Land

Posted from Culver City, California at 9:00 pm, February 29th, 2008

One of the perks of having to work hours that make grown men cry is that my company offered all employees who had averaged over 45 hours per week during the last four months of 2007 a weekend at the Four Seasons in Santa Barbara. The weekend took place in mid-February, and it turned out to be one of those places that normal folks like the Holliday Boys usually only see in movies. We arrived to the resort to find some guy in a bath robe on the putting green, passed by the croquet field, and arrived rather starstruck at the front desk. The girl at the checkin obviously didn’t realize Aaron and I were brothers, and initially offered a room with a single king bed. I set her straight by asking for separate beds, and Aaron helpfully noted that “we could always push them together later”.

Our first order of business after checking in was to check out the spa and take advantage of the chance to get a massage. The list of treatments was extensive, and we finally made appointments for treatments that offered a bit of everything, from mud to massage to weird facial treatments. We hit up the resort’s restaurant for dinner, and again ran into some confusion about two guys spending a weekend together at a resort and ended up being seated at a romantic corner table. Portions were small but pricey, and I’ll probably not be ordering abalone again.

On day two we joined the owner of my company and his girlfriend on a rented yacht and were given basic lessons in sailing. Despite the fact that we both took turns at the wheel and trimmed the sails we still arrived home alive, although in fairness Jason was keeping close tabs on us to ensure his own survival. We got back in time for our spa appointments, and the fireworks began. The resort’s guide recommended that most spa treatments were “enjoyed without clothing”, but both Aaron and I figured a pair of boxers was the way to go. Both of us were met by the masseuses (massagers? whatever…), led to separate rooms, and then told that the mud treatment was too messy for boxers. Luckily I noticed the blanket on the massage table and crawled under it, but Aaron missed this important detail and was greeted with “Oh! Mr. Holliday!” when his masseuse returned to the room. Aside from that little disaster there weren’t any further surprises, and while it was great to get a massage, the mud smearing was a bit odd. In any case, we both came away relaxed and more-or-less useless, and spent the rest of the night watching TV and eating room service food.

The next day’s highlights were a ridiculously great brunch featuring crab claws and caviar, followed by a visit to the beach and its resident bikini-wearers, and concluding with the croquet championships of the world. Since neither of us knew the rules of croquet it made for an interesting game, and other guests at the resort who passed by were obviously aware that Aaron and I were a bit different from most of the folks the resort was used to hosting.

And that’s the highlights for February. It’s a little over three months until the great Iceland expedition, but until then there may not be a lot of fodder for the journal, so the one-a-month entries may unfortunately continue for a while.

Aaron Sailing

Sailing.

Aaron & Ryan Sailing

More Sailing.

Friends, Places

Posted from Culver City, California at 11:45 pm, January 26th, 2008

Aaron, Ryan, and Garth. Tonight’s installment of the Holliday brothers’ concert tour led to the Staples Center for Garth Brook’s fourth of five concerts in a two-day period. As usual it was a bit of an ordeal aquiring tickets – when they went on sale I got on Ticketmaster’s web site early, timed it so that I hit submit the millisecond tickets went on sale, but instead of getting good seats I was treated to a “Sorry, a system error has occurred” message. By the time I had re-submitted the request the tickets were sold out. But then a second show was added, and then a third. I finally got seats for the fourth show, and they were good ones.

Highlights of the show:

  • A two minute long “yee haw” fest outside of the Staples Center before the concert. Folks were pumped up.
  • The loudest and most enthusiastic crowd of any concert I’ve ever attended.
  • Tricia Yearwood coming out for a song, and then not being allowed to leave due to the cheers.
  • A kid sitting near the front holding a “Please sign my hat” sign. As Garth was leaving he looked at the kid, and shortly after the lights came up someone came out from backstage, talked to the kid’s father, and then took the kid backstage. About two thousand people sitting in the area cheered so loudly that everyone leaving Staples stopped, thinking there was going to be a third encore. Further cheers followed when another guy emerged from backstage and brought the father back.
  • The second encore, during which Garth brought out one of the food service ladies from backstage. He said that she asked him what it’s like to be on stage in front of so many people, and he figured the best way to answer something is to “jump in with both feet”. She apparently asked him to sing “Ring of Fire” – obviously not the biggest Garth fan out there – but he sang another song that the crowd enjoyed, then took her to the middle of the stage, told her “this will be cool”, and then told everyone to take a picture on the count of three. After the flashes died down he said that in case she didn’t get a copy of the photo he wanted to make sure she had something to remember, and she left the stage in tears and wearing his hat.

A good time, and well-worth the ridicule from co-workers about being a country music fan.

One Foot in Front of the Other

Posted from Culver City, California at 8:00 pm, December 31st, 2007

The forecast twenty degree temperatures never materialized, and it was a balmy thirty-one degrees when I awoke at 3:45 AM with something very, very wrong in my neck. As near as I can tell at some point during the evening my body rolled but my head didn’t get the message, and my neck bore the brunt of this miscommunication. In any case, after a short drive this morning I turned up the Mount Whitney Portal Road in Lone Pine, and then made a hike of the last few miles of road, past ice and rockfalls that were obviously the source of the “road closed” signs posted below. This route is the homestretch of the 135-mile Badwater Ultramarathon, and it was with a renewed respect for those athletes that I huffed and puffed my way over the short distance and 2,000 foot elevation change to the trailhead.

From that point all paths led homeward, and after a brief stop for a burrito (yum) and a car wash I was home and scrubbing mightily to remove the many layers of dirt that had accumulated over the past few days. Now it’s one day of rest before heading back to work, and another six months before the great Iceland adventure brings more fodder for journal entries.

Leave the Pieces

Posted from Taboose Pass Trailhead, Inyo National Forest, California at 4:50 pm, December 30th, 2007

Twenty-three degrees at sunrise this morning. Not warm – invigorating is probably the term that puts the best spin on it, although it’s also probably most accurate – when your breath is the first thing you see after opening your eyes in the morning it makes you feel just a bit more alive. I walked around Mono Lake and snapped photos for about an hour after sunrise before continuing south along the Eastern Sierra. The Sierras rise gently from the west but drop abruptly on the eastern side, so I was looking straight up at snow-covered 13,000 foot peaks as the road descended from 8,000 feet down to 4,000 feet.

After an early lunch in Mammoth I moved on to the Owens Valley, passed a few more lakes, some incredible mountains, and a herd of about fifty elk before turning off the highway and heading up an interesting-looking but rough dirt road that eventually led to the Taboose Pass trailhead. I had no plans of going all the way up to the pass, which I imagine must be an ordeal similar to what Frodo and Sam undertook to get into Mordor. Instead I went only a short way, but given that any trail around here heads more-or-less straight up it was tiring enough, and after returning I’m now camped out for the night with a forecast for an evening low of twenty degrees, guaranteeing that my breath will again be my first sight in the morning. Luckily an additional advantage of the cold air is that, combined with the lack of city lights, the stars stand out prominently, so in addition to struggling to keep my core temperature above freezing I’ll also be gazing at the depths of the Milky Way as I head to sleep.