Ryan's Journal

"My life amounts to no more than one drop in a limitless ocean. Yet what is any ocean, but a multitude of drops?" — David Mitchell

Stanley, Falkland Islands

Posted at 10:30 pm, October 2nd, 2004

The trip feels like it’s now underway, even though we haven’t yet left the harbor. The group Ted has put together is an impressive one, including Mike, who leads treks through the Brooks Range, Micky, who owns a climbing gym, Shane, who used to lead trips for Outward Bound, David, who was a passenger on the last Antarctica trip and myself. The crew consists of Jerome and two French women, the younger of whom has been living in Ushuaia for the past year and a half.

We spent the latter part of the afternoon in Stanley, and it felt like a town that I could someday settle down in. It’s got the character of a small New England fishing town, but with old-time British touches. The townsfolks (all 1800 of them) were quite friendly and willing to chat, giving the place a very cozy feel. This trip will be a lonely one at times, but there is no doubt it will be a good one.

30,000 feet over Southern Chile

Posted at 10:00 am, October 2nd, 2004

It’s been a rather surreal day so far. Early this morning I woke to the sounds of the couple in the next room, who apparently were under the impression that they were being judged for effort. After leaving the hotel I flagged down what may not actually have been a taxi, and had absolutely no idea what the driver was saying as we drove to the airport. Once at the airport an array of televisions made it impossible to ignore an infomercial for the Jack La Lanne Power Juicer, and now that I’ve escaped Jack and am on the plane I’ve somehow been upgraded to first class for the flight to the tip of the continent and then on to the Falklands. Getting there is an important part of the journey, but after three days in transit it’s going to be really nice to spend some time on the bow of the Golden Fleece just watching the ocean roll by while the albatross follow along.

Puerto Montt, Chile

Posted at 2:30 pm, October 1st, 2004

Four of the six South Georgia passengers arrived in Santiago early this morning, with everyone but myself having a ticket that allowed them to overnight in the capital. Lan Chile booked me on an 8:00 PM flight out of Santiago, which would have meant spending the day in the Santiago airport and sleeping on the floor of the Puerto Montt airport at night, but luckily I was able to switch to an 8:30 AM flight. After arriving in Puerto Montt it quickly became apparent that no one in this city speaks a single word of English, so my three-word Spanish vocabulary (“burrito”, “taco” and “cervesa”) was put to creative uses in order to get a taxi from the airport and then a room in a hotel. I’m not yet in full-on travel mode, but after flying over the jagged peaks of the Andes, running the airport’s taxi cab gauntlet, and getting a discounted room price despite barely knowing what the hotel owner was saying, it’s a fair assessment to say that the side of me that spent the past six months trapped in a cubicle is now fading quickly into memory.

30,000 feet over Central America

Posted at 5:45 pm, September 30th, 2004

The obligatory introspective start-of-travels entry follows. I’ll try and stick to interesting stories after this, although it may be a while before I can post anything since there will be no internet access until the end of October. I may not be able to immediately check or respond to emails, but please send them, and I promise I’ll write when I can.

Travels always start off differently, and this one seems to be starting off with a sense of who and what has been left behind — probably moreso than any other trip I’ve ever done, there were reasons to stay before leaving this time. Even so, South Georgia island is as close to a perfect place in nature as exists anymore in the world, and it affords the rare guarantee of simplifying life in a way that reveals what’s important. November 15 seems like a long way off, but hopefully when that date rolls around it will be possible to return to a life that is unchanged, but to do so as a somewhat different person.

Here’s the itinerary in full:

  • 30 Sep to 02 Oct – Travel from OAK to the Falklands (via LAX, Santiago & Puerto Montt)
  • 02 Oct to 06 Oct – Crossing from the Falklands to South Georgia aboard the Golden Fleece
  • 07 Oct to 25 Oct – Explore South Georgia Island
  • 26 Oct to 30 Oct – Crossing from South Georgia to the Falklands aboard the Golden Fleece
  • 30 Oct to 13 Nov – In the Falklands
  • 13 Nov to 15 Nov – Travel from the Falklands to OAK (via Santiago & LAX)

Concord, California

Posted at 9:45 pm, September 25th, 2004

Left Los Angeles today, and with one notable exception it felt tremendously uplifting to be closing that chapter of life and opening the next – aside from the trip to South Georgia the future is completely wide open and uncertain. Made it back to the Bay Area just in time for Ma Holliday’s birthday dinner, and on Monday it’s off to see the Goob in Chico before starting the long slog to South Georgia (seven days on planes and a boat) on Thursday.

Toluca Lake, California

Posted at 10:00 pm, September 24th, 2004

I walked out of Warner Brothers a free man today, and with luck I’ll stay that way for a while yet. The South Georgia trip is looming, life outside of work has been really good, and all in all the world is looking mighty nice. The only downside is a case of what I think is food poisoning that has knocked my weight down almost eight pounds in the last week. Assuming that I’m going to get really seasick during the three day crossing from the Falklands to South Georgia, weight loss could become a big issue.

Toluca Lake, California

Posted at 10:20 pm, September 15th, 2004

I apologize in advance for posting politics again, but this is the first thing Kerry has said recently that actually made me more enthusiastic about voting for him (from CNN):

“The president stood right here where I’m standing and didn’t acknowledge that more than 1,000 men and women have lost their lives in Iraq,” Kerry said. “He didn’t tell you that with each passing day, we’re seeing more chaos, more violence, indiscriminate killings.”

“That is the truth, as hard as it is to bear.”

“I believe you deserve a president who isn’t going to gild that truth or gild our national security with politics, who is not going to ignore his own intelligence, who isn’t going to live in a different world of spin, who will give the American people the truth, not a fantasy world of spin … “

It would have been nice if that last bit was worded more positively rather than as an attack, but hopefully Kerry is beginning to push the message that he will be honest about the state of the world. He doesn’t need to attack the Bush administration, but simply say “they have not been completely truthful with you, but I will be”. If he can do that then I (and many others) may become enthusiastic about voting for him, rather than enthusiastic about voting against Bush.

Toluca Lake, California

Posted at 10:00 pm, September 12th, 2004

I’ve got ten working days left with Warner Brothers before the third retirement starts, and I’m pondering what might come next. I keep thinking it might be fun to do something like work at Starbucks for a while — there’s always at least one cute girl behind the counter at Starbucks, the customers are generally friendly, you get to work with muffins, and for the first time in my life it would be a job where wearing a hat to work wouldn’t be frowned upon. Granted, having a job where wearing a cowboy hat to work wasn’t frowned upon would be way better, but you’ve got to start somewhere.

Burbank, California

Posted at 9:15 pm, September 9th, 2004

I found a trip log from a previous trip to South Georgia aboard the Golden Fleece. It’s a fairly crazy tale, here’s a sample:

South Georgia (11/6/01) Hey this is Doug Stoup live from the island of South Georgia for IceAxe TV… We’re now positioned in Drygalsky Fjord — a beautiful fjord… there’s 3000 foot walls right out of the water… right now, there’s an overcast sky. The barometer dropped 4.7 millibars…that is the most I’ve ever seen it. It’s not a good sign; it could mean either high winds or a storm coming…the temperature’s 45- degrees and I just got a 45-knot gust of wind that about blew me off the boat…

South Georgia (11/7/01) We’ve been up for about 17 hours straight, trying to battle 80 mile-per-hour winds in the boat, The Golden Fleece. Jerome has been an amazing captain, staying up the whole time, trying to keep the boat into the wind…in the fjord…We’re now positioned at Larsen Bay, around the corner from Drygalski Fjord… 80 mile-per-hour gusts have been coming up and down the fjord…currently a low-pressure over us right now and we have five to eight inches of snow on the boat itself and minimal visibility — so we’re just sort of hunkering down and waiting for the weather to break…

Toluca Lake, California

Posted at 10:40 pm, September 8th, 2004

A few travel-related notes for once…

I’m working out the details with Greg & Thalia for the 2006 Galapagos trip. Interest has been high for this one, so I’m hopeful that a good group will sign up for it pretty quickly. I’m trying to determine the feasibility of doing the standard Galapagos trip, followed by a scuba trip to Darwin and Wolf — I should hopefully know more before the end of the month.

South Georgia is only three weeks away now, and more details of the trip are coming into focus:

  • It will take four flights spread over four days to get from Oakland, California to Stanley in the Falklands.
  • From Stanley it will take another three to four days, depending on weather and currents, to sail to South Georgia.

South Atlantic Map

  • The captain of our yacht, Jerome Poncet, is a legend in the South Atlantic. I’ve heard several stories already, and can’t wait to meet the man in person.
  • We’ll have approximately eighteen days on South Georgia. Ted is planning to take three days to retrace Shackelton’s route across the island with part of the group, but unfortunately my lack of experience traveling over snow and glaciers is going to cause me to miss that one.
  • On Ted’s advice I’ve purchased a set of alpine touring skis, which are basically light downhill skis that allow the heel to unhinge, thus doubling as cross-country skis. They’re pricey, but should be great for the terrain we’ll experience.
  • Snowfall was lighter than normal this year, and temperatures are expected to be mostly between thirty-two and fifty-five degrees fahrenheit, much cooler if we go inland.
  • In addition to the new digital camera I’ve purchased a new tripod, so with luck the pictures will come out well.
  • Following the South Georgia trip I’ve booked two weeks in the Falklands, mostly at guesthouses on outlying islands. It should be isolated enough that I may not know who the next President is until nearly tens days after the election.

South Georgia Island

Toluca Lake, California

Posted at 11:40 pm, August 30th, 2004

I’m pushing for Kerry pretty hard in this election, but it’s not because I’m a staunch democrat — if the election was Kerry vs. McCain I don’t know who I would vote for — but because I think George Bush is a terrible, terrible leader. He seems like a nice guy, but he’s a very bad President. I’ve been absolutely baffled as to how anyone with any intelligence could support him — the arguments put forth on pro-Bush web sites and on right-wing talk radio are so blatantly one-sided or else based on false information (“Saddam orchestrated 9/11”, “Kerry will raise taxes on the middle class”) that I can’t believe anyone of even moderate intelligence would fail to see through them. Tonight, however, I stumbled on Andrew Sullivan.com, which is written by a staunch Republican who actually makes reasonable arguments. I disagree with him on many points, but for once I can actually sort of understand a Bush supporter’s position.

Toluca Lake, California

Posted at 11:05 pm, August 30th, 2004

So my brother calls me tonight and tells me that he’s going to the Dave Matthews Concert. I scoff, and tell him that I checked, and Dave isn’t coming to California anytime soon. To prove my point, I go online and discover that there is a free concert in Golden Gate Park on the 12th (which is of course now sold out) and a concert near Sacramento tomorrow. Ticketmaster and their concert notification service can bite my white butt, ’cause I didn’t know about either of these.

Upon hearing that there’s a concert tomorrow Aaron was immediately in full-on “I’m going” mode. I warned him how the last time he went to see Dave Matthews without me his girlfriend got sick and practically puked all over him, but he wasn’t dissuaded. Left with no other option, I made a quick call to the boss, did some magic on iflyswa.com, and now in about twenty hours the Holliday boys will be jamming along with Mr. Matthews and friends. At some point I’m told that I’m going to grow up and become responsible, but until then it should be a heck of a ride.

Dave Matthews Band

Toluca Lake, California

Posted at 11:10 pm, August 27th, 2004

Sadly there has been nothing of interest to write about lately. The daily routine right now consists of getting up at 7:30, working until 8:00 or 9:00, either going to the gym or else reading a bit, and then (hopefully) falling asleep at a reasonable hour. I have the lifestyle of a seventy year old while still only twenty-eight.

Also, from the soapbox, if you live in a state where your vote is going to matter (which sadly excludes all but a handful of states), please make the effort to get out and vote for Kerry. Practically every issue that matters to me has been trampled by Bush, and yet he stands a good chance of being given four more years to continue. His record on the environment? The past four years have been horrific, with everything from logging in the guise of fire suppression to attempts to drill for oil in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. Fiscal responsibility? The deficits are at a record due to the tax cuts and uncontrolled spending. International relations? Anti-American sentiment is as bad as it’s probably ever been. Morality and values? The country is the most polarized it’s been since the sixties, we’re in the midst of the dirtiest election campaign I can remember, and personal liberties are being attacked in this country (see the Patriot Act) and abroad (see Abu Gharib). Bush seems like a nice, well-meaning guy and all, but I don’t see how four more years of his leadership could be anything other than a disaster.

Think About It

Most people think “liberal whacko” when they see an image like this one. But
think about the message — it’s a very obvious truth that has been proven by
history. What kind of values do we have if this “seems” wrong at first glance?

20,000 feet above Chicago

Posted at 8:50 pm, August 15th, 2004

Went to my ten year high school reunion in Cleveland this weekend, which was a ton of fun but also rather surreal. Everywhere I looked was someone who kind of looked like someone I used to know, but in this case they actually were the person I used to know. A highlight of the reunion was receiving an award for following up my “most likely to win a gold medal” accolade as a senior by getting beat eight years later by a 66 year old woman in the San Diego marathon — next time I’m definitely not going to fill out the pre-reunion questionnaire.

Aside from seeing Caitlin, Amy, Rob, Chris, and the rest of the gang, I got a chance to talk to a lot of other people that I hardly knew during high school. For some of those folks we were just filling an awkward moment where we happened to be standing near one another, but for others I really enjoyed the conversation and regretted not having known them better. And of course, with most of the old group of friends it was like nothing had really changed — before even saying hello to Rob we were giving him crap about his parking, and the group at Tommy’s quickly glossed over the obligatory “where are you and what are you doing” questions and launched into the more important matters of how many milkshakes and brownie monsters we should order.

Another thing that was weird about coming back was all of the things I didn’t realize I missed. People have a lot more space in the Midwest than they do in the cities of California, and everything is really, really green. In addition, stuff like Bob Evans, seeing people smoking in public places, and the Duck Pond’s killer attack geese induced a weird sort of deja-vu/nostalgia that I hadn’t been expecting.

Today I slept in and drank a ton of coffee to work off the slight hangover, then met up with some of my college friends who I hadn’t seen in years. Now on the flight home I’ve got my first airborn celebrity sighting as I’m sitting two rows behind Kevin Smith (aka Silent Bob). All in all a great weekend.