Ryan's Journal

"My life amounts to no more than one drop in a limitless ocean. Yet what is any ocean, but a multitude of drops?" — David Mitchell

Seals and Cape Foulwind

Posted from Abel Tasman National Park, New Zealand at 11:15 am, April 4th, 2024

It rained all night and through the morning, but when you’re starting your day at Cape Foulwind you sort of want the weather to live up to the name.

First thing today I made a short drive to Tauranga Bay to visit a small fur seal colony. In the midst of a steady rain, the two dozen or so fur seals reminded me of the South Georgia trip; they are playful, loud, and grumpy, but definitely a joy to watch. I didn’t linger since I’m not as waterproof as the seals, and after bidding the pinnipeds adieu I sloshed back into the car to begin the four hour drive to Abel Tasman National Park. I’d been hoping to make some stops along the way, but the rain never really let up so it was a scenic but uneventful drive to the north coast. It finally stopped raining after I arrived, so after checking in to my lodging I roamed around for a bit out on the sand flats as the tide was coming in, apparently annoying a few of the local shorebirds in the process.

New Zealand has ten tramping tracks that have been dubbed Great Walks by the Department of Conservation, and one of them is the Abel Tasman Coast Walk. This trail is actually New Zealand’s most popular hiking track, and while I don’t have time to traverse the full 37 miles, the plan for tomorrow is to have a water taxi drop me at Bark Bay and then enjoy a leisurely stroll back through the first fourteen-ish miles of the walk, ending at the trailhead near my lodging. The weather forecast calls for sun, the tides look like they’ll cooperate so that I can cross the estuary without having to make a long detour, the number of visitors has dropped since it’s late in the season, and I’m looking forward to yet another small adventure in this excellent country.

Pukeko, Abel Tasman National Park

There wasn’t a lot of opportunity for photography today, so while I’d like to stay this Pukeko was captured in the wilds far from humanity, he was actually hanging out with his friends in a horse pasture next to tonight’s lodging.

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