Little Paradise

The stargazing trip ended at 11:15 last night, so it was well past bedtime when I finally got home, and I was asleep within seconds. This morning was the last chance for a hike in the park, so shortly before sunrise I got up and embarked on the 1000 steps of the Red Tarn Track. It was utterly quiet as the sun was starting to illuminate the mountains, and I only saw six other people on the trail. Afterwards I took an inventory of my leg muscles to determine how well the rowing machine that I use at home had prepared me for three days of hiking in the mountains. My quads and (surprisingly) knees were both still on full speaking terms with me. My hamstrings were complaining but still amicable. My calves, however, had fully gone on strike, and all that was left in their place were raw knots of pain and anguish.

After saying a sad farewell to Aoraki it was off to the south, stopping along the way at High Country Salmon’s farm and main shop south of Twizel for lunch. From there it was a scenic four hour drive through pastures, hills, gorges and lakes until I reached Queenstown, panicked momentarily at seeing humanity again, and then quickly exited west towards the night’s lodging at Little Paradise Lodge.

I’m not totally sure how to describe the evening’s lodging. It’s a bit like Willy Wonka opened a four bedroom guesthouse surrounded by gardens. Everything (including the two buildings) is handmade from rocks, sticks, or other natural materials, there are thousands of flowers planted everywhere, dozens of unique statues made by the owner have been placed throughout the property, there are a handful of ponds and fountains, and there are random details in every corner that cause you to do a double take. I’m writing this from the “Fire of Romance” room (Audrey was unsurprised that I booked the romantic accommodation when she’s still at home) with a half dozen peacocks chattering outside, a view out over the massive Lake Wakatipu, and rain pattering on the ivy-covered roof.